QSC Torque Lock Conversion
Please email bike specs to us so we can get the right setup for you.
We set out to create a product that fills the gap in performance vs cost. In the past the only options have been a clutch kit, or step up big to a completely new aftermarket primary clutch, so Instead of trying to re-invent the wheel, we said lets just fix the inherited problems on the factory clutch. The factory clutch is very efficient on power transfer and durability, and the engine brake works great, but it is hard on belts. Some of the biggest issues with the factory clutch is the spider is not locked up to the main shaft, allowing it to slip under heavy loads and burning the belt. Another is the steel back sheave that holds so much heat, that even under normal driving conditions, it causes heat related problems with the belt.
Lastly the one way bearing is quite large with a higher starting ratio, making it difficult to get adequate squeeze on the belt with the bigger mud tires. The solution was to correct these problems to save you some money, and provide amazing performance and reliability.
How did we do this? First we started by making a new billet aluminum back sheave to dissipate the heat, and a new shaft that uses the factory one way bearing to maintain the already great engine brake.
Next we built a new billet spider and drive coupling that taper locks to the shaft so it CANNOT slip independently of the movable sheave. Another key element with the new spider is we moved the rollers up, further away from the hinge point of the shift arm pins, allowing us to make significantly taller shift arms to squeeze that belt a lot harder. Doing this, massively improved the bottom end performance, off idle belt squeeze, overall acceleration, and much cooler belt temps. Part throttle driving manners are very nice, and cruising rpm is low, which cuts down on engine heat, and fuel consumption.
This product is a conversion kit for your factory clutch. You will continue to use your factory movable sheave, one way bearing assembly, and spring cup. What you receive is a new pre-assembled shaft and back sheave, a new assembled spider complete with buttons and rollers, a new primary spring with engagement adjustment shims, a adjustable weight kit that's pre loaded for your particular application, and a new bolt with washer. You do not have to send anything in to have it modified.
PRODUCT USE- The Can-Am ATV world is filled with mild to extreme modifications from big nasty engines to crazy lifts with massive tires, and even though we have tested this conversion in all these extremes, for problem free, and long term reliability, we recommend this product for anyone running stock tires, up to a 32" tire, and engine builds up to around 140 hp. Anything more extreme than that, we recommend a full billet primary like the QSC REV X RMT or a qualified equivalent.
This fits all Gen 1 and Gen 2 Can-Am Outlander and Renegade models 570cc-1000cc, and OG Commander 800-1000.
You can use your factory belt, or if you want to try aftermarket, we recommend the EVP BAD ASS Race belt. The Gates Redline was also tested and worked great.
This can also be paired with a STM secondary.
Please email bike specs to us so we can get the right setup for you.
We set out to create a product that fills the gap in performance vs cost. In the past the only options have been a clutch kit, or step up big to a completely new aftermarket primary clutch, so Instead of trying to re-invent the wheel, we said lets just fix the inherited problems on the factory clutch. The factory clutch is very efficient on power transfer and durability, and the engine brake works great, but it is hard on belts. Some of the biggest issues with the factory clutch is the spider is not locked up to the main shaft, allowing it to slip under heavy loads and burning the belt. Another is the steel back sheave that holds so much heat, that even under normal driving conditions, it causes heat related problems with the belt.
Lastly the one way bearing is quite large with a higher starting ratio, making it difficult to get adequate squeeze on the belt with the bigger mud tires. The solution was to correct these problems to save you some money, and provide amazing performance and reliability.
How did we do this? First we started by making a new billet aluminum back sheave to dissipate the heat, and a new shaft that uses the factory one way bearing to maintain the already great engine brake.
Next we built a new billet spider and drive coupling that taper locks to the shaft so it CANNOT slip independently of the movable sheave. Another key element with the new spider is we moved the rollers up, further away from the hinge point of the shift arm pins, allowing us to make significantly taller shift arms to squeeze that belt a lot harder. Doing this, massively improved the bottom end performance, off idle belt squeeze, overall acceleration, and much cooler belt temps. Part throttle driving manners are very nice, and cruising rpm is low, which cuts down on engine heat, and fuel consumption.
This product is a conversion kit for your factory clutch. You will continue to use your factory movable sheave, one way bearing assembly, and spring cup. What you receive is a new pre-assembled shaft and back sheave, a new assembled spider complete with buttons and rollers, a new primary spring with engagement adjustment shims, a adjustable weight kit that's pre loaded for your particular application, and a new bolt with washer. You do not have to send anything in to have it modified.
PRODUCT USE- The Can-Am ATV world is filled with mild to extreme modifications from big nasty engines to crazy lifts with massive tires, and even though we have tested this conversion in all these extremes, for problem free, and long term reliability, we recommend this product for anyone running stock tires, up to a 32" tire, and engine builds up to around 140 hp. Anything more extreme than that, we recommend a full billet primary like the QSC REV X RMT or a qualified equivalent.
This fits all Gen 1 and Gen 2 Can-Am Outlander and Renegade models 570cc-1000cc, and OG Commander 800-1000.
You can use your factory belt, or if you want to try aftermarket, we recommend the EVP BAD ASS Race belt. The Gates Redline was also tested and worked great.
This can also be paired with a STM secondary.
Please email bike specs to us so we can get the right setup for you.
We set out to create a product that fills the gap in performance vs cost. In the past the only options have been a clutch kit, or step up big to a completely new aftermarket primary clutch, so Instead of trying to re-invent the wheel, we said lets just fix the inherited problems on the factory clutch. The factory clutch is very efficient on power transfer and durability, and the engine brake works great, but it is hard on belts. Some of the biggest issues with the factory clutch is the spider is not locked up to the main shaft, allowing it to slip under heavy loads and burning the belt. Another is the steel back sheave that holds so much heat, that even under normal driving conditions, it causes heat related problems with the belt.
Lastly the one way bearing is quite large with a higher starting ratio, making it difficult to get adequate squeeze on the belt with the bigger mud tires. The solution was to correct these problems to save you some money, and provide amazing performance and reliability.
How did we do this? First we started by making a new billet aluminum back sheave to dissipate the heat, and a new shaft that uses the factory one way bearing to maintain the already great engine brake.
Next we built a new billet spider and drive coupling that taper locks to the shaft so it CANNOT slip independently of the movable sheave. Another key element with the new spider is we moved the rollers up, further away from the hinge point of the shift arm pins, allowing us to make significantly taller shift arms to squeeze that belt a lot harder. Doing this, massively improved the bottom end performance, off idle belt squeeze, overall acceleration, and much cooler belt temps. Part throttle driving manners are very nice, and cruising rpm is low, which cuts down on engine heat, and fuel consumption.
This product is a conversion kit for your factory clutch. You will continue to use your factory movable sheave, one way bearing assembly, and spring cup. What you receive is a new pre-assembled shaft and back sheave, a new assembled spider complete with buttons and rollers, a new primary spring with engagement adjustment shims, a adjustable weight kit that's pre loaded for your particular application, and a new bolt with washer. You do not have to send anything in to have it modified.
PRODUCT USE- The Can-Am ATV world is filled with mild to extreme modifications from big nasty engines to crazy lifts with massive tires, and even though we have tested this conversion in all these extremes, for problem free, and long term reliability, we recommend this product for anyone running stock tires, up to a 32" tire, and engine builds up to around 140 hp. Anything more extreme than that, we recommend a full billet primary like the QSC REV X RMT or a qualified equivalent.
This fits all Gen 1 and Gen 2 Can-Am Outlander and Renegade models 570cc-1000cc, and OG Commander 800-1000.
You can use your factory belt, or if you want to try aftermarket, we recommend the EVP BAD ASS Race belt. The Gates Redline was also tested and worked great.
This can also be paired with a STM secondary.